How to install TCP / IP for PING response

If you don’t have your TCP/IP (Transmission Control Protocol/Internet Protocol) installed. These protocols facilitate network and Internet communication, so you’ll need to install them. 

Click Start and Control Panel, then double-click Network Connections.

Right-click the connection to your network and click Properties, then check the list of items in the This Connection Uses The Following Items field for an Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) entry. 

If it’s not there, click the Install button below, then double-click Protocol. Now find TCP/IP (may appear as Microsoft TCP/IP version --) in the Network Protocol field of the Select Network Protocol dialog, click to select it, and click OK. 

If after installing TCP/IP you’re still not getting a response from PING, check your physical connections (make sure your network cable plugs are properly seated in their ports) and then check to see if you have a firewall running that isn’t allowing your system to access the Web.

Many firewalls can be configured to refuse access without inquiring of the user whether they desire it. If that’s the case, scan the program’s interface or check its Help files for the menus and commands you can use to configure your firewall to allow outbound access. (These vary from program to program.)

Checklist for before fix your computer

Although a list of things to check won’t catch every PC problem you encounter, you’ll be surprised at how often the simple steps below can lead to troubleshooting success. Whether you’re kicking off a troubleshooting session or at your wits’ end after hours of fruitless research, here are some good tips to try. 

Is the PC’s power supply switch turned on? Some PCs have a power switch at the back. Make sure it hasn’t been switched off. 

Are all cables connected? Loose connections regularly cause headaches. Remove and reconnect each plug firmly, even if you’re sure it’s connected. 

Are all peripherals turned on? Make sure a powered-off print server isn’t preventing your printer from working. 

Does the Device Manager display any problems? Check this tool for red Xs, which indicate a malfunctioning or disabled device. 

Is there a new driver? Updated drivers often fix hardware problems. If you can’t find new drivers (check the manufacturer’s Web site), try reinstalling your existing driver. 

Have you installed software updates? Software publishers sometimes release patches via their Web sites. 

Also, check to see if your software recently installed updates automatically. In rare cases, a software update may introduce problems.

How to find the source of the problem in a computer

Once you know (or think you know) whether you’re dealing with a hardware or software problem, you can really dig into the next question: Which hardware component or program is the source of the trouble? If you can answer this question, you won’t have any trouble finding an article in this issue that addresses your problem. Here are some tips for narrowing the troubleshooting field.

Hardware problems. Once you suspect a hardware problem, list the components (internal or external) that might be the cause of the problem and then check each component, one at a time. In some cases, this may mean checking external and internal hardware. For example, if your print documents don’t reach the printer or you see error messages that say your printer isn’t connected to the computer, you’ll want to check the USB cable that runs from your computer to the printer to make sure neither of the connections is loose. You’ll also want to be sure that your computer’s 

FIX YOUR PC 

Troubleshooting Basics

Windows’ System Restore lets you revert your PC to an earlier condition without losing your important files. You can use this feature to undo bad hardware and software installations.

USB port is functioning. (You can test this by plugging another USB device, such as a USB flash drive, mouse, or external hard drive into that port.) In some cases, you may suspect that an internal component is damaged, but not be in a position to confirm the defect. If you think that your computer’s lost network connection is due to a damaged or incorrectly configured Ethernet NIC (Network Interface Card), you probably don’t have an extra Ethernet card that you can swap out. This is where the Device Manager, a built-in Windows tool, can help you identify problems without opening your PC or bumming spare parts from your friends.

To open the Device Manager, rightclick the My Computer icon on the Desktop, and then click Properties. When the System Properties window appears, select the Hardware tab and then click the Device Manager button. The Device Manager displays a list of your PC’s components by category, such as Disk Drives (hard drives), Processors, DVD/CD-ROM Drive, and Display Adapters. By default, the list shows only the component categories, rather than the components themselves. If you want to see the names of your specific CD-RW and DVD-RW drives, for example, you’ll need to click the plus (+) sign next to DVD/CD-ROM Drives. The list will then expand to reveal all of the components in that category. The exception to this rule, however, is the component that is damaged. If Windows knows your NIC isn’t working, it will automatically expand the Network Adapters category to display any networking components in your PC. You’ll see a red X next to the damaged NIC. To learn more about the NIC’s problem, rightclick it and then select Properties.

The General tab of the NIC’s Properties window includes a Device Status section that offers a brief explanation of the problem. You can also pinpoint certain problems, such as excessive heat, by checking the PC’s BIOS. All PCs have a BIOS, which is a very basic operating system that allows your system’s components to communicate. Most BIOSes have a PC Health or Status page that lists system fan speeds and system and processor temperatures.

I installed more memory but Windows doesn’t recognize it

Bad memory modules aren't very common, but test the computer with a different module if possible to see if the one you originally installed was a dud. The most common cause of this problem is that some motherboards require that memory modules be installed in pairs. Most RIMM memory modules, for example, must be installed in pairs that match exactly in speed and capacity or they won’t work. Newer systems that support dual-channel DDR SDRAM (Double Data Rate Synchronous Dynamic Random Access Memory) modules will work when the memory modules are installed singly, but performance is enhanced (sometimes dramatically) if you install matched pairs of RAM modules instead (i.e. you get better performance using two 512MB modules than from using a single 1GB module, even though the overall memory capacity remains the same). Check the manual carefully when installing memory to make sure you place the modules in the correct slots.

Why Power Button Doesn't Work

In rare cases, the power button itself breaks, so open the case and inspect the button for damage before trying anything else. If that isn’t the cause, then the motherboard may be fried due to electrical damage, but this problem most often happens after you install a hardware component and accidentally unseat the motherboard’s internal power plug from its socket. The size and shape of this socket (and sometimes there are two separate sockets) varies depending on the type and age of your motherboard, but the documentation that came with your computer should let you know where to look. You are looking for the power supply’s ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) plug, which has either 20 or 24 pins, and the ATX socket, which has an equal number of holes to accommodate the power pins. Some motherboards that have 20-pin ATX sockets also have a 4-pin ATX socket located elsewhere on the board, and both of these must be powered by separate cables for the motherboard to function. All you need to do is make sure the power plugs are fully seated in the sockets and the computer should boot.